The Disappointments Of An English Woman In New York

New York. The Big Apple. The city that never sleeps. You would be far stretched to find someone who hasn't lived in/wanted to go to/visited/at least heard of New York. Except perhaps a few tribes in the Amazon but I wouldn't be surprised if they hid postcards of Lady Liberty under their pillows or sang Sinatra's New York New York at celebrations. (Just an interesting cultural note for those of you that don't know, New York New York is one of the most common songs to be played at the reception of British weddings).

For me, New York was a source of great interest for many reasons: 1) How I Met Your Mother & F.R.I.E.N.D.S is set in New York 2) its reputation as one of the greatest and most diverse cities in the world is something I had to explore 3) according to my best friend, the shopping is incredible. OK, so perhaps not the most deep & philosophical reasons for wanting to visit somewhere, but those were my reasons none the less. You can imagine my excitement therefore my my Dad told me that our family holiday 2010 would be to New York city itself! I immediately got a job and starting saving up money, dreaming of all the dresses and shoes that could soon be mine. And, given that New York is the city where dreams come true, I was certain they would be.

July arrived nice and quickly and before I knew it I was being welcomed to New York after an 8 hour flight of watching terrible films (Alice In Wonderland, the Bounty Hunter & Valentine's Day - I recommend none of them. They are all disappointments.) and uncomfortable fidgeting after failing to sleep. We (and just to clarify ahead of time, 'we' is myself, my two younger brothers, my father, my step-mum and two younger step-brothers) were staying in an apartment above a restaurant in Little Italy but had to drive from Brooklyn first to get there. I can tell you right now, that the view of Manhattan from Brooklyn bridge at night is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen and left me instantly smitten.

I loved the idea that instead of being typical tourists in a New York hotel, we were diving into New York life & living like other New Yorkers. The apartment was just as I had expected New York apartments to be: dirty & dingy on the outside, nice on the inside and views of the red brick apartment building next to yours and black laddered fire escapes. Teaming the gorgeous view from Brooklyn bridge and our awesome apartment, I fell asleep that first night convinced that I'd like to live in New York one day. Given that I'd only been in New York about an hour, I can say now that that thought was a little premature.

(Image: Little Italy on a busy Friday night)

Now my knowledge of the geography of New York was very sketchy so I had to have it all explained to me by my Dad when we got there. For a start, I had no idea that it was a state. Did you??? Once I had that information though, things became a little easier to understand. New York is divided into boroughs - much like London - called Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan, The Bronx and Staten Island. While in New York, we covered Midtown to Downtown Manhattan, including Ellis Island and Liberty Island, the home of the Statue of Liberty and drove through Brooklyn to get to & from the airport. We went around everywhere by subway and walking which I also liked because, according to Chandler in FRIENDS, no one drives a car in New York so we didn't either! Although our reasons were because it would be healthier & cheaper, not because Chandler said so.

I am going to start on a slightly negative note. I HATE THE SUBWAY. The only good thing is that its air-conditioned. It is so dirty & humid & full of crazy people! Don't get me wrong, I wasn't expecting some ultra modern and clean super system but I was expecting better than what it was. Having experienced the London Tube, I'm used to the dirtiness of travelling underground but the New York heat made being underground unbearable. The most sweating I did the entire week was a subway journey on a train that didnt have air-conditioning. It was awful.

On a more positive note, the sights we were going to see via the subway were pretty damn amazing. Times Square is the most beautiful symbol of consumerism I have ever seen, as your eyes are dazzled by endless flashing advertisements and giant posters of models. I could have lived in Central park easily. It really is an oasis and you can completely forget you are in the middle of a city and go for nature walks among beautiful trees, plants and lakes, go and watch softball games or sunbathe in endless fields (I did all three). Plus you can go and see the FRIENDS fountain! Chinatown is a unique shopping experience as you develop your haggling skills (my personal achievement was getting a bag down from $75 to $25) and a perfect chance to stock up on all the perfumes that are ultra expensive in London (I finally got my Vera Wang Princess - for $15!).

(Image: Times square)

I am a bit ambivalent about the shopping in New York. It is no mistake that there are plllllenty of shopping opportunities, but I unfortunately was disappointed. It isn't as cheap as I was hoping and I didn't find much that I wanted in the major places people go to like Century 21, Macys and (the love of my shopping life) Forever 21. I did however get to stock up on my Abercrombie & Fitch. I refuse on principle to buy it from the shop in London and I was in dire need. I have also developed a love for American Eagle jeans and stocked up on MAC makeup.

The food of New York was...different. Once again I was ambivalent. I absolutely loved most of it but found that eating the equivalent of what would have been two meals in London as one was a bit much on my stomach. I gained half a stone in a week. Plus the lack of places that sold apple juice and meals without bread of any kind disconcerted me. I will say however that I totally prefer food shopping in deli's to supermarkets. As deli's are quite rare in London, is was quite a cool experience to handpick everything you bought.

The people of New York was something I only really experienced through the subway and while in restaurants or shopping. It was really nice being greeted and asked how I was every time I walked into a shop but on the subway, it was very much like London, where everyone just minds their own business and keeps to themselves. I therefore remain undecided and will make no opinion of the New York people until I have met ones who are not in a situation where they are at work and obligated to be kind to me, nor on public transport. I will say that they seem lovely enough though!

The visits to Ellis and Liberty island were really interesting. From 1892 to 1954, Ellis island was the portal for over 12 million immigrants into the US. Liberty Island is the home of the Statue of Liberty. I love the symbolism of freedom behind the two places and the thought of the millions of immigrants that would have passed through Ellis island was very overwhelming. I didn't however, have the major connection with the two places that many people do. Perhaps it is because, to me and my ancestry, Ellis island and the statue of liberty have never really had anything to with us. Despite being a beautiful monument, for me, that was all it was - a monument. Who knows, perhaps I'm harbouring some secret dislike for Lady Liberty because the liberty she gained is from the tyrannical British? I seriously doubt it though.

(Image: the Statue of Liberty)

(Image: the globe crushed by the twin towers)

There was one place, however, that I did have a very strong connection with. Ground Zero. When we went to where the Twin Towers had originally stood, we were met with scaffolding and major building works as the building of the ground zero monument continued but that did nothing to prevent the reality of what happened hitting me. All around the site were more buildings and people and thought that they collapsed into this cramped little space was overwhelming. Everywhere you went in New York you could see signs of the effect of 9/11. On the front of many fire & police stations were plaques for service men that died saving others on that day. In Central park there is a globe that was crushed when the twin towers fell on top of it then rebuilt as a monument and has to be the most thought provoking, emotional & symbolic art work I have ever seen. Even going to times square, which was covered in police officers after the recent terrorist attempt there. What I loved was that despite what happened, the city wasn't coated with fear or suspicion but continued being just as amazing as it had always been, standing up to terrorism by showing its strength and ability for everyone to unite together. That being said, at the time I knew nothing of the protests that were going on against a mosque being built near ground zero. I personally consider them to be the minority that have allowed their fear to control them and turned their fear to hate.

All in all, I really enjoyed New York. It was an interesting place to visit with good food, good people and good sights. But, in all honestly, I didn't live up to the 'greatest' reputation and while I would like to go back to see more of the other boroughs in New York, it hasn't made it onto my list of places I want to live. What do you think? Did I miss something? Is there something I should have done or seen that I didn't? Am I missing the big picture? I don't know, maybe.

In a sentence, my review of New York would be "good, but not great" or perhaps "Chicago's better".

Pancake Recipe: Canadian Buttermilk Pancakes with Maple Syrup

This recipe is by Delia Smith and taken from http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/database/canadianbuttermilkpa_70009.shtml

Makes 6

Preparation time: less than 30

Cooking time: 10 to 30 minutes

Description

Canada is where this profoundly unique syrup made from the sap of maple trees is made, and these are the pancakes that a certain Madame Lafond made for me when I was in Quebec; delightfully easy but tasting so light and fluffy.

Ingredients

4fl oz/120ml buttermilk

5oz/150g plain flour

½ level tsp baking powder

pinch of salt

3 large eggs, beaten

about 1-2oz/25-50g lard

To serve:

lots of pure maple syrup and creme fraiche

Method

First sieve the flour, baking powder and salt together in a roomy bowl and make a well in the centre. After that, whisk the buttermilk and 3fl oz/75ml cold water together in a jug and gradually whisk this into the bowl, slowly incorporating the flour with each new addition of liquid. Finally, add the eggs a little at a time until you have a smooth batter.

Now place a large, solid frying pan over a medium heat, add 2 teaspoons of the lard and heat it until the fat shimmers. Then, using a tablespoon of batter per pancake, place 2 or 3 spoonfuls into the pan.

They will take about 1 minute to turn golden brown, then turn them over using a spatula and fork, being careful not to splash yourself with the hot fat. Give them another 45 seconds on the other side, by which time they should have puffed up like little soufflés, then briefly rest them on some kitchen paper to absorb any excess fat.

Repeat this with the rest of the batter, adding a little more lard if necessary. They will keep warm in a low oven, but to enjoy them at their best, have everyone seated to eat them as soon as they come out of the pan.

Pancake Recipe: Scotch Pancakes with Chocolate sauce

This recipe is by Ross Burden from British cooking show Ready Steady Cook and has been taken from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/database/scotchpancakeswithch_84396.shtml

Serves 1

Preparation time: less than 30 minutes

Cooking Time: less than 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the pancake batter

2 free-range eggs

50ml/2fl oz milk

50g/1¾oz plain flour

1-2 tsp baking powder

50g/1¾oz dark chocolate, finely grated

For the chocolate sauce

25g/1oz chocolate, melted

30ml/1fl oz double cream

30ml/1fl oz maple syrup

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.

2. For the pancakes, place all the batter ingredients into a bowl and whisk together.

3. Heat a non-stick ovenproof frying pan over a medium heat and pour in the pancake mixture. Fry for two minutes, then transfer into the oven and cook for five minutes.

4. Transfer the pancake onto a chopping board and slice into quarters.

5. For the chocolate sauce, place the ingredients into a small frying pan over a medium heat. Stir constantly until the sauce is thick and smooth.

6. To serve, pile the pancake quarters onto a serving plate and pour over the chocolate sauce.

Pancake Recipe: American Pancakes

This recipe is by Celia Brooks Brown and is taken from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/database/americanpancakes_72753.shtml

Makes 8-12

Preparation time: less than 3o minutes

Cooking time: 10 to 30 minutes

Ingredients

250g/8¾oz plain flour

2 tsp baking powder

1 tsp sea salt

3 tbsp sugar

250ml/8¾fl oz milk

2 eggs, lightly beaten

50g/1¾oz unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for cooking

For the maple butter syrup

80ml/2¾fl oz maple syrup

25g/1oz unsalted butter

Method

1. Sift the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar into a bowl.

2. Mix the milk, eggs and melted butter in a large jug, then add the flour mixture and mix quickly to make a batter (don't worry about lumps - they're good). Alternatively, make the batter in a bowl and transfer to a jug.

3. Heat a cast iron frying pan or flat-surfaced griddle until medium-hot, grease lightly with extra butter and pour in the batter in batches to make rounds, 8-10cm/3-4in diameter.

4. Cook for 1-2 minutes or until bubbles form on top of the pancakes and the underside is golden, then flip each one over and cook for one minute. Keep the pancakes warm in the oven while you cook the remaining batches.

5. To make the maple butter syrup, heat the maple syrup and butter together in a small saucepan or microwave.

6. Stack the pancakes on warmed plates and pour over the buttery syrup to serve.

Pancake Recipe: Basic sugar and lemon British pancakes

Here is a pancake recipe from: http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/database/basilpancakswithsuga_66226.shtml and made by Delia Smith a famous British TV Chef

This recipe makes 12-14 pancakes. (Though this can vary depending on the size and thickness of your pancakes, so don't pancake if you manage to make a lot less or a lot more than that!)

Preparation time: Less than 30 minutes

Cooking time: Less than 10 minutes

Ingredients

For the pancake mixture:

110g/4oz plain flour, sifted

pinch of salt

2 eggs

200ml/7fl oz milk mixed with 75ml/3fl oz water

50g/2oz butter

To serve:

caster sugar

lemon juice

Method

Sift the flour and salt into a large mixing bowl with a sieve held high above the bowl so the flour gets a airing. Now make a well in the centre of the flour and break the eggs into it. Then begin whisking the eggs - any sort of whisk or even a fork will do - incorporating any bits of flour from around the edge of the bowl as you do so.

Next gradually add small quantities of the milk and water mixture, still whisking (don't worry about any lumps as they will eventually disappear as you whisk). When all the liquid has been added, use a rubber spatula to scrape any elusive bits of flour from around the edge into the centre, then whisk once more until the batter is smooth, with the consistency of thin cream. Now melt the 50g/2oz of butter in a pan. Spoon 2 tbsp of it into the batter and whisk it in, then pour the rest into a bowl and use it to lubricate the pan, using a wodge of kitchen paper to smear it round before you make each pancake.

Now get the pan really hot, then turn the heat down to medium and, to start with, do a test pancake to see if you're using the correct amount of batter. I find 2 tbsp is about right for an 18cm/7in pan. It's also helpful if you spoon the batter into a ladle so it can be poured into the hot pan in one go. As soon as the batter hits the hot pan, tip it around from side to side to get the base evenly coated with batter. It should take only half a minute or so to cook; you can lift the edge with a palette knife to see if it's tinged gold as it should be. Flip the pancake over with a pan slice or palette knife - the other side will need a few seconds only - then simply slide it out of the pan onto a plate.

Stack the pancakes as you make them between sheets of greaseproof paper on a plate fitted over simmering water, to keep them warm while you make the rest.

To serve, spinkle each pancake with freshly squeezed lemon juice and caster sugar, fold in half, then in half again to form triangles, or else simply roll them up. Serve sprinkled with a little more sugar and lemon juice.

(It must be added that everyone has their variations on how to make pancakes but as long as you have the basics of the batter, the butter in the pan and frying it, you'll do just fine so don't panic if you don't have any of the fancy equipment she lists. Really, who has a rubber spatula???)

The Forgotten Holiday: Pancake Day February 16!

Looking at today's celebrations, I realised one was missing that we are celebrating in the UK: PANCAKE DAY! I have contacted earthcalender.net, who we use to get the information on Holidays, and have told them to add it to their list!

In the UK Shrove Tuesday is also known as Pancake Day because it is the one day of the year that nearly everyone eats a pancake!

It was originally a religious day, as the last day before the Christian lent. It was a tradition to eat pancakes on this day as it was seen as your last chance to indulge yourself and use up the foods that aren't allowed during lent such as fat, butter and eggs. Today, however, most people celebrate Pancake Day just for the pancakes and do not recognise it as a religious event. I know a huge and dedicated fan of Pancake Day and she is an Atheist!

Shrove Tuesday is always 47 days before Easter Sunday so the date varies from year to year and falls between 3rd February and 9th March.

A pancake is a thin, flat cake made of batter and fried in a pan. Usually once it is cooked people put caster sugar or lemon juice over the pancake . You can also add things like berries, golden syrup, jam and melted chocolate.

Quite a few different countries celebrate Shrove Tuesday, or Pancake Day, but perhaps have different names for it. They are all listed below:

UK, Ireland, Australia: Shrove Tuesday or Pancake Day

Brazil: Terça-feira Gorda (Fat Tuesday) - the final day of Brazilian carnival

Greece: Apocreas (from the meat) they also don't eat meat during lent

Sweden: Fettisdagen - Fat Tuesday

USA: In Catholic and French-speaking parts of the US it is called Mardi Gras

Germany: Fastnacht (Also spelt "Fasnacht", "Fasenacht", "Fasteloven" (in the Rhine area) or "Fasching" in Bavaria.)

France: Mardi Gras (Grease or Fat Tuesday)

Iceland: Sprengidagur (Bursting Day)